Designing fashion items by respecting silhouettes and proportions

It is important for designers to understand as early as possible how a garment grows from a two-dimensional concept into a three-dimensional object. A pattern is a flat paper or card template, from which the parts of the garment are transferred to fabric, before being cut out and assembled.

A good understanding of body shape and how body measurements transfer to the pattern piece is essential. The pattern cutter must work accurately in order to ensure that, once constructed, the parts of fabric fit together properly and precisely. Pattern cutting tools and equipment Working with the right tools will make block and pattern construction easier. These are just some of the key pieces of equipment required.

Tailor's chalk - Using tailor's chalk is one way of marking lines or transferring a pattern on to cloth.
Set of three French curves - These are used for drawing narrower curves, such as those found on collars and pockets.
43cm set square - This is a right-angled triangular plate used for drawing lines, particularly at 90 degrees and 45 degrees.
Wooden awl - This is used for marking any points within the pattern piece by punching through the pattern to leave a small mark on the fabric.
Pins - These are used to temporarily fix pieces of paper or cloth together.
Tape measure - An indispensable item, this is used for taking measurements of the body and its flexibility allows curved lines to be measured too.
Pattern drill - This is used for marking things such as darts, pockets and any other marking points within the pattern piece. The pattern drill will punch a hole of 2–4mm into the pattern. The position of the punch hole can then be marked with chalk or thread on to the fabric.
Pattern notcher - This is used for marking the edge of the pattern pieces by taking out a small square for each balance point. This should only be used on pattern paper – thin sheets of plastic or card – not on fabric.
Paper scissors - These are – as their name suggests – only used for paper, in order to keep the blades sharp.
Tracing wheel - This is used to trace a line from one piece of paper or pattern on to another directly underneath it.
Pattern master - This is used to create lines and curves and to check angles.
Aluminium metre ruler - This is essential for drawing and connecting longer, straight lines.

First impressions of an outfit are created by its silhouette – the overall shape created by a garment. This is before qualities conveyed by the detail, fabric or texture of the garment can even be acknowledged, so the shape and form that a garment takes is a fundamental consideration in the design and construction processes.

Silhouette is fundamental to the preliminary stages of the design process in order to determine which parts of the body will be emphasised and why. Once these decisions are made, it is up to the pattern cutter and designer to start contemplating how the design can be physically constructed and, if necessary, supported and structured using underpinnings and foundations. Many materials and techniques can be used to shape a silhouette. For example, using shoulder pads to widen the shoulder can create an illusion of a small waist and narrow hips.

Proportion refers to the comparative relations and dimensions of the various parts of a whole outfit. A combination of garments can look messy or can work in harmony. For example, the ways in which a jacket, a skirt and a pair of boots relate to one another will add to the sense of proportion and balance conveyed by the outfit as a whole.

Proportions can be changed fairly easily using various construction methods. For example, moving a hemline, waistline, pocket, seam or dart position can dramatically alter the balance of width and length on an individual body shape. Choice of fabric texture and colour can also add to the overall effect conveyed by the cut and shape of a garment.

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Designing fashion items by respecting silhouettes and proportions

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