Rigid foam insulation increases the insulating value per inch of thickness and therefore helps maintain highly insulated walls from being too thick. Most often, one or two inches of rigid foam is put into the exterior of the wall framing.
In fact, if adequate provision has been manufactured to strengthen the wall with bracing or plywood at corners, in most regions this rigid foam may be used in place of the structural plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) sheathing. The kind of rigid foam insulation having a shiny foil facing onto it offers the highest R-value per inch.
Rather than putting the rigid foaminsulation on the outside of the walls, some builders do the installation on the interior, then pay for it with drywall. Either location can help ensure a good house. Building science experts generally prefer exterior placement to lessen the chance of moisture problems in the wall cavity, although if properly installed, either placement can performwell.
The down-side of rigid foam insulation, from an eco standpoint, is that it ismade from petrochemicals. Some kinds of foaminsulation are created using potentially toxic chemicals, risking pollution of the environment duringmanufacture, andmost require addition of flame retardants-some which have their very own health issues. Also, one kind of rigid foam insulation, extruded polystyrene, (XPS) continues to be made using HCFC (hydrochlorofluorocarbon) blowing agents that damage our planet's protective ozone layer.
For homeowners prepared to invest in thicker walls, petrochemical-based foam insulation could be avoided. There are many options involving building thicker walls and insulating the wall cavity with just fiberglass or cellulose.
One alternative is really a double wall of 2x4s, using the walls held aside from one another by a number of inches. A 2x4 is 3-1/2 inches deep, so two 2x4 walls provide 7 inches of depth, plus any extra space between your walls. The down-side of the system may be the lack of interior space on the floor.
You might develop a structural wall, then attach non-structural wall trusses (sometimes called curtain trusses, or “Larson” trusses following a Canadian builder who developed the system) to supply plenty of thickness for insulation.
These wall trusses are created utilizing a the least wood so they won't significantly lessen the performance of the insulation. If 8-1/2-inch-deep wall trusses are affixed to a 2x4 wall and also the entire cavity is insulated, an overall total of One foot of insulation could be installed. When wall trusses are utilized on the beyond a timber frame, the timbers in many cases are left fully exposed on the interior; all of the insulation is installed between your wall trusses.
To maintain the walls from feeling oppressively thick with one of these hightech wood-framing systems, window and door openings could be splayed (angled) inward. By doing this, the windows won't feel so tunnel-like, and more light can get to the room. Splaying does involve more complicated carpentry, however, so keep that in mind. The wide windowsills that derive from either of those framing systems may serve as planters, display areas, as well as seats.
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