Designs for a garment can be cut and made to fit an individual customer or they can be graded and altered to fit wearers of differing sizes. Either way, a full and detailed knowledge of sizing and grading is essential for any designer hoping to create a beautifully fitting garment. Being able to translate body proportions to paper and back to a three-dimensional garment takes much practice and careful attention to detail is fundamental.
Womenswear sizing is based on measurements of height, bust, waist and hips. In the UK, sizing starts at size 6 and goes up to size 22 (the best-selling sizes are 12, 14 and 16). European sizes start at size 34 (which is equivalent to size 6) and go up to size 52. American equivalents range from a size 2 to 18. However, as the fashion industry becomes increasingly sophisticated and complex, it is becoming much easier to find other size ranges to accompany these, such as Petite, Tall or Half-Size.
Menswear sizing is universally made up of a chest measurement for a jacket, and a waist and inside leg measurement for trousers. Shirt sizes are given by the neck measurement. In childrenswear the principal variable is usually height so sizing is governed mainly by age.
Measurements for each size can be taken from everywhere but, where possible, it is always best to take real measurements from live models.
Grading is the process of scaling a pattern to a different size by incrementing important points of the pattern according to a set of given measurements. Grading is a very specialised area in pattern cutting that not many professionals master. The secret is to know where the pattern needs changing to fit the decrease and increase in body size. Such increments can vary from 3 to 5cm (1.5–2in), depending on the garment range.
Many manufacturers use the British Standard sizing, which was first established in the 1950s and has changed over the years to accommodate changes in lifestyle.
The United States has its own sizing and many other nations have worked out standard sizing for their own needs. Factors such as culture and diet have great influence on a country's average body shape. For example, northern European body shapes are generally tall and large whereas the average body shape in the Far East is shorter in height and slimmer in stature. For these reasons, a design house must always carefully consider the market it wants to sell to.
When grading a pattern, make sure that all corresponding seams, notches and punch marks match before starting the grading process. Grading can be done by hand with a metric grader's set square, pattern master or an L-square ruler, as well as by computer using a specific program, such as Lectra or Asys.
Our website is not responsible for the information contained by this article. Articleinput.com is a free articles resource thus practically any visitor can submit an article. However if you notice any copyrighted material, please contact us and we will remove the article(s) in discussion right away.
Note: This article was sent to us by: Deborah Brones at 01122011
1. A particular type of masculine identity
All articles are property of their respective authors. Please read our Privacy Policy!
© 2009 ArticleInput.com.
Partners: Damenmode